Digital laser-dyeing for polyester fabrics

Surface polyester fibers modified by laser beam energy have been found to display improved dye uptake (Lau et al. 1997; Kamel et al. 2012; Shahidi et al. 2013). This research considers “laser-dye” patterning as an alternative coloration method within a textile design context. In this study, standardized polyester (PET) knitted jersey and plain, woven fabrics were modified with CO2 laser technology to engineer dye onto the fabric with high-resolution graphics. The work considered the aesthetic possibilities, production opportunities, and environmental potential of the process compared to traditional and existing surface design techniques. Laser-dyed patterns were generated by a digital dyeing technique involving CAD, laser technology, and dye practices to facilitate textile coloration and patterning. An understanding of energy density was used to define the tone of a dye in terms of color depth in relation to the cloth. In so doing, a system for calibrating levels of color against laser energy in order to build a tonal image was found. Central to the investigation was the consideration of the laser beam spot as a dots-per-inch tool, drawing on the principles used in digital printing processes. It was therefore possible to utilize the beam as an image-making instrument for modifying textile fibers with controlled laser energy. Quantitative analysis of the outcomes alongside creative exploration facilitated both a tacit understanding of, and ability to control, processing parameters. This enabled repeatability of results parallel to design development and has established the potential to apply the technique commercially. Sportswear prototypes produced in the study suggest a suitable market for processing polyester garments in this way.