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|Title: ||Lasers and textiles: an exploration into laser dye-fibre interaction and the process of technology transfer|
|Authors: ||Bartlett, Savithri N.|
|Issue Date: ||2006|
|Publisher: ||© Savithri N. Bartlett|
|Abstract: ||To most woven textiles, retail value is added through the twin processes of dyeing and colourprinting for short runs (e. g. 100-150 metres) vat dyeing may add as much as ,
screen-printing a repeat pattern as much as £2.50 to £5 per metre (Angela Hamilton of Stead
McAlpine 2005, pers comm., 20 October). In the current globalised textile and clothing
industry, as a result of cheap imports from China and the Far East, the UK's screen and rotary
printing industries are facing annihilation, their current printing methods unable to meet
market requirements, i.e. short delivery times, quick response to changing design, colour and
cloth, elimination of inventory holding, mass customisation, and deferment of coloration to the completed garment stage.
The present doctoral research accepts the challenge to the UK's archaic fabric printing
technology by suggesting an alternative route of dye uptake and surface design. The study is
guided by the following research problem:
How might lasers/intense pulsed light radiation be used to increase the uptake of dye
at the surface of a fabric weave, while minimising the potential degradation in a
The problem is resolved through five main questions and two distinct methodologies.
The section comprising Questions 1 to 4 successfully investigates (a) pyrolysis in natural and
man-made fibres in the course of laser-marking, (b) surface heating of a fabric weave without
impairing fabric strength, (c) computer-aided transfer of artwork to the laser-marking program:
specifically, how tonal images may be encoded in a limited palette of grey tones; and (d) the
laser-marking process, generating interaction between dye and fibre through selective
absorption of a single wavelength of radiation. An experimental scientific method is employed
to calibrate all findings.
The fifth research question examines how these scientifically monitored findings might be
applied in commercial garment production. Collaboration was set up between `haute couture'
designers and a laser machinery manufacturer, in which the author's intermediary role put to
the test her theoretical and practical experience of design and lasers. The process of
collaboration were closely monitored, and raw data in the form of organisational meeting talk,
annotated drawings, laser-marked fabric samples, have been analysed using the `Framework'
Based on this research, future investigations will aim to (a) explore the selective absorption of a
single wavelength of radiation by dye, fibre and dye liquor, (b) investigate the tonal marking of
a 4-colour design on dyed impregnated fabrics, and (c) explore niche market strategy in a wide
spectrum of collaboration between industry and `haute couture'.|
|Description: ||A Doctoral Thesis. Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the award of Doctor of Philosophy of Loughborough University.|
|Version: ||Closed access|
|Appears in Collections:||Closed Access PhD theses (School of Arts)|
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